The Artistry of Handmade Dials in Havaan Tuvali Watches

In the vast world of watchmaking, where established brands reign supreme, a Taiwanese microbrand is making waves with its unique approach to timepiece creation. Havaan Tuvali, founded by Eric Yeh, has successfully carved a niche for itself in the industry by blending vintage components with contemporary handmade dials.

Eric Yeh possesses a profound passion for mechanics, which has been ingrained in him since childhood. He possesses a unique ability to dismantle and reassemble various mechanical objects. Additionally, his affinity for automobiles, shared by many enthusiasts, manifests in his constant pursuit of enhancing his Alfa Romeo through the exploration of performance-enhancing parts. However, Eric's inspirations for his craft extend beyond the confines of his automotive pursuits. Eric recognizes the unpredictable nature of creativity and understands the significance of being receptive to unexpected moments of inspiration.

Havaan Tuvali was born out of Eric Yeh's passion for watches and his desire to create timepieces that were both affordable and unique. Having worked in the watch repair industry for several years, Yeh developed a keen understanding of the inner workings of mechanical watches. This knowledge, coupled with his love for mechanical devices, laid the foundation for his foray into the world of microbrand watchmaking.

Eric chose the name for his brand based on the Taiwanese aboriginal Burun tribe language, where it means "the deer's sunset." According to the ancient Burun tribe, when the deer emerged from the forest during sunset to find sustenance, it signaled the end of the day's work for the people and served as a way to tell time. Yeh aimed to create a brand that embodies the finest attributes of Taiwan, including dependability, accuracy, artistry, and uniqueness in a positive sense.

The Havaan Tuvali Classic Sector watch offers a modern take on a timeless sector dial style, featuring an attractive hand-painted dial. The stainless steel case measures 40 mm in diameter and approximately 11.5 mm thick, and it has a voluminous onion-shaped crown. There are three dial color options: blue gray, cream, and pastel blue.

The watch maintains the traditional layout of sector dial watches, with a railway track and hour markers in the peripheral circle. The center of the dial is marked with a thin cross, while the brand name is elegantly painted at 12 o'clock. The blued Breguet hands contribute to the classic aesthetic of the watch.

Classic Sector is equipped with a Chinese hand-winding Seagull ST3620 movement, which closely resembles the Swiss Unitas 6498 movement. Havaan Tuvali also offers a premium option with Swiss Unitas 6498 movement at a surcharge.

Eric states, “The classic sector model represents my initial foray into the art of handmaking dials. Prior to this, I had relied on dial factories to manufacture dials for me. However, due to the lack of profitability, I yearned for a change. Seeking guidance from my instructors at Watch Repair School, I delved into extensive research, watching numerous instructional videos on YouTube. Equipped with the necessary tools and after numerous trial and error attempts, I successfully mastered the skill of creating my own dials.”

Duodecima originates from a long-abandoned batch of watch cases that were commissioned from a Taiwanese manufacturer in the 1970s but never received. There is no record of the company that placed the order at the factory; however, the proprietor remembered that they were destined for Germany. Regardless of their original intended destination, these watch cases remained in storage for many decades before being acquired by Eric for this watch. Each case possesses polished, unsigned crowns and mineral crystals.

Despite their age, which ranges from 40 to 50 years, the Duodecima watches align remarkably well with ongoing trends. The angular cases and smaller sizes of these watches have recently regained popularity. Their sharp edges and concealed lugs are very reminiscent of the 2023 trend. The stainless steel case of the watch is largely brushed with a touch of shine along the beveled upper and lower case edges, giving the already slim case a thinner appearance. The most prominent feature of this case is undoubtedly its 12-sided bezel, intricately detailed with a polished, faceted edge and gold rivets. As these pieces are New Old Stock (NOS), they may exhibit a few minor blemishes. Eric meticulously selects the undamaged pieces and refurbishes the rest himself.

Duodecima is a unisex watch with modest case dimensions of 34mm in width, 37mm in length, and 10mm in thickness. The watch is fitted with a vintage Swiss-made A. Schild AS1537 hand-winding movement.

The dial of the watch is what sets it apart from being merely a charming vintage piece. Eric handcrafted the Duodecima dial from cotton paper used for traditional calligraphy, which he cuts and dyes by hand before pad printing the railroad index, reticle, and logo. This is further embellished with a brass hour ring featuring a printed, either in Roman or Arabic, “California-style” dial with Havaan Tuvali’s hourglass logo at 12 o'clock. Eric offers a variety of options, including Glacier Blue, Salmon, Malachite Green, Desert Sand, Vintage White, and Night Blue. Eric states that he is also open to discussing the possibility of custom colors, and it takes him about two months to make a limited quantity of custom-colored dials. Duodecima is priced at just under $500.

Another unique dial with vintage components worthy of mention is the Cigar Watch. I had the opportunity to go hands-on with a couple of examples of this watch at the Micro Praha event held recently in Prague. The slim case with curved lugs and a striking cigar-leaf dial made a positive impression. Eric explains how the cigar watch came about: “Originally conceived as a unique piece for a close friend who shares a passion for cigars, the cigar watch was crafted using a vintage Seiko watch. Initially created for personal enjoyment, I decided to share a few photos on social media. To my pleasant surprise, there was a significant amount of interest generated. This led me to explore the possibility of producing more watches, prompting a visit to my case factory. Fortunately, I was able to procure vintage NOS cases and movements, which laid the foundation for the creation of the cigar dial models.”

By combining vintage components with contemporary design elements, Havaan Tuvali has created timepieces that are not only affordable but also carry a unique charm that sets them apart from the rest. Eric Yeh's journey from a watch repair apprentice to the founder of a successful microbrand is a testament to his dedication and love for watches.